A (mini) Greek Odyssey

This particular part-time adventure started with a question: how to do the Greek islands in a week? I’d never been, but I’ve always, always wanted to (N.B. I’ve since realised this isn’t strictly true… Not the always wanting to go bit, but about having never been. About ten years ago I did a quick stop on Santorini as part of a school trip, and I spent a week in Kavos after finishing school, but let’s put this one down to artistic licence…).

After (a LOT) of research, I found that, of course, the answer to the question is: you can’t. But what you can do, is combine a week’s holiday, some strategically booked flights and two or three short ferry journeys to cram a mini Greek island adventure (three islands) into seven nights. This is what I did in early September, and not only was it definitely doable without feeling too rushed, it was also an absolutely amazing trip.

The course of the week was enough to get a flavour of two Cyclades islands, Naxos and Paros (with an overnight in Mykonos on the night before the flight back, but not much more). Obviously it’s not possible to see and do everything these two have to offer (sights, scenery, food and history) but with the right prep you can fit a lot in. So much so that both warrant their own separate posts (watch this space).

A taste of the Cyclades: London > Mykonos > Naxos (three nights) > Paros (three nights) > Mykonos (one night) > London

Island hopping on a tight timescale – tips
I’m no expert, but certain things definitely made it easier to do more in a short time.

• Fly direct – At first the plan was for the two of us to book a cheap flight to Athens or Thessaloniki in mainland Greece and take a bus to Piraeus, where there are plenty of options for ferries to the islands. However, I couldn’t get the timings to add up, and it would have taken an overnight on the mainland to make sure we could get on a ferry to Naxos in time after all that travel. Even though it cost more, flying directly from London to Mykonos on a morning flight (Easyjet, around £250 return) meant we could get straight to Naxos by around 7pm the same day. The afternoon flight on the way back means we did have stay in Mykonos overnight beforehand (be prepared for much higher prices and a lot more people!)
• When it comes to accommodation, plan ahead – Getting off the ferry, you’ll be met with a flurry of people offering rooms for rent, complete with laminated photos and plenty of info. For some travellers, this could be ideal – booking there and then means you’re more flexible in terms of your length of stay and gives you the opportunity to negotiate on price – but if you’re anything like me, you’ll want time to browse and compare and read reviews. In the summer months, rooms can also book up well in advance, so for the full choice it’s probably best to plan ahead. All the places we stayed offered free pick-up and drop-off at the ferry and airports, which also helps save time
• When it comes to ferries, don’t plan ahead – Info on the ferry sites seems to chop and change, so my advice would be use the info available online as a guide for timings etc., but wait until you’re on the island to book. There’s plenty of travel agents and kiosks at the ports and in the main towns, and it helps to have some insider information (everyone spoke English, and I, shamefully, could only say hello and thank you in Greek, so this was a great help!). I also found that some sites only let you book multiple-stop journeys if you selected the same operator for each leg, which can be expensive. If time allows it, it’s cheaper to opt for the slower ferries (for example, Naxos to Paros in an hour is only €6) – but nice to know there are speedier options (catamarans) if you need them. Staying close to the port on both Naxos and Paros was also a handy timesaver for travel days
• Know your on-island transport options – To fit a lot in a just a few days, you need to get from A to B (and then to C, and back to A, and off to D etc. etc.). There’s plenty of rental options on Naxos and Paros (cars, mopeds, quad bikes, bicycles), as well as buses and walking trails. Since the weather was good, we rented quad bikes (around €35 a day) on the days when wanted to go to a handful of different places (from beach to beach, town to town, up to the Zeus mountain walking trail on Naxos). We also used the bus on Paros (€1.60 each way) when all we needed was to get to one beach and back
• Explore the beaches – There are, of course, the main beaches – complete with sun loungers (rent one for a day for about €8) and lots of really good beach bars – on both islands, but there are also plenty of secluded spots. You can find these by taking any of the beach exits along the main coast roads, and then driving/walking/cycling until you find one you like the look of. And believe me, there are some absolutely breathtaking ones to be found
• At dinner, don’t be afraid to stray from the seafront – It’s true that some of the best fish and seafood restaurants were found right on the beach, or next to the harbours, but if you just stick to these then you’ll be missing out on some amazing eats. Two of the best meals we had were in restaurants that took some finding (Labyrinth in Naxos and Levantis in Paros), tucked away in the winding streets behind the ports
• Be ready for furry friends – This is a bit of a weird one, but having grown up going on holidays with someone who is utterly phobic of cats, it seems worth mentioning. In the heat of the day, there’s hardly a kitty to be seen, but at night they come to see what pickings they can get from the plates of generous tourists (and at some places, two or three will literally sit at the bottom of your chair waiting for scraps). If you like cats, no problem – if you don’t, it’s worth bearing in mind
• If you get the chance, go – Naxos and Paros were some of the most incredible places I’ve been to – amazing scenery, delicious food and wonderful people. Even if time and budgets are tight, there are lots of Greek island travel options on offer, so if you get the chance to go, my advice is definitely to take it

Feast on Adventure

This post is really inspiring – a brilliant outlook on adventuring… Looks like itchy feet are catching!

Here's to Appetite

There are some times when restraint just won’t cut it and it’s precisely during those times when you have to raise a glass to appetite! Be greedy, have dessert, book that ticket, feast on adventure. I’m naturally very greedy and I pride myself on my appetite. I don’t just mean food (although – believe me – gastronomic indulgence is a huge part of my life), I’m hungry for anything and everything that gives me that feeling that I really am living my life and creating memories.

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The two-year ticklist

So, first things first – I have been royally slack on the posting front. It’s been a year since the last one, and it’s not that I haven’t been anywhere worth writing about, it’s just that sometimes life (and travel) gets in the way and writing takes a back seat.

That said, it recently dawned on me that – all being well and good – in around two years I will be entering into a new decade (my thirties) and this seems as a good a time as any to set some new adventuring goals.

Ideally I’d like to visit ten countries over the next two years. It could be easy peasy (another multi-stop European trip has the potential to tick off a handful all at once) or it could be a bit of a struggle (work commitments, dwindling holiday allowance, budget restrictions, etc.).

The good news is, the first spot in the ten-strong ticklist has already been filled. One down, nine to go…

1. Greece (more specifically, the Cyclades – post to follow)
2. – 10. To be continued…

Brilliant Bruges

To put it very simply, Bruges is brilliant. Not only is it close enough to the various England/France ferry and tunnel ports to make it a very viable weekend getaway, it also boasts a personality and general vibe that makes it all worth the short trip across the channel.

The first thing that strikes on the approach into this little Belgian city is the bikes. They are everywhere – as a Londoner it’s amazing to see that this simple, clean and convenient way to get around (and stay fit) has found its real home in Bruges. Cars and bikes seem to live in harmony on its streets, and from the cross section of cyclists making their way around, it seems like bikes are something that appeals to all sorts of people in Bruges.

It’s the bikes, as well as the cobbled streets, the independent shops, the food, the beer, and the beautiful architecture that all help to give the city its charm. It’s enough just to wander around with no particular itinerary, soaking up the sights, smells and the setting. From record shops to whiskey houses, chocolatiers to traditional lace
makers, there’s plenty to explore.

For all its charm and relaxed hospitality, one thing Bruges isn’t is cheap. Most of the restaurants on the main square offer set fixed-price menus (with the traditional classics likes moules all available) with very little difference in price from place to place. However, even though eating and drinking out can get a bit pricey (€30 for a bowl of mussels, chips and a glass of wine), it is possible to wander away from the main tourist spots to grab a bargain. It’s also worth noting that on my visit, with price definitely came quality – €24 for a huge bowl of bouillabaisse packed with amazing seafood (and even a whole salmon fillet!) seemed more than reasonable once the food arrived at the table! A mouth (and eye) watering experience!

For dessert there was no excuse (!) for heading over to one of the ice cream stands (following the amazing smell of cooking batter and sugar), picking up a Belgian waffle with Nutella (definitely worth the calories) and doing some people watching in the main square. Visiting in the summer there was still a lot going on in the streets during the evening, and it was enough to just sit somewhere and soak up the Bruges atmosphere.

The Hotel Navarra provided the ideal overnight stay, offering a really comfy room, decent breakfast and parking (although this is extra) for a reasonable cost. It’s also within minutes of the thick of things and, even though it’s not a big hotel, has its own basement pool and sauna for relaxing after a hard day wandering the cobbled streets and gorging on waffles and beer. All in all, the perfect weekend getaway.

Going underground at Brasserie Zédel

In anticipation of a Parisian weekend break, part two (read about part one here) it’s time for another French-themed culinary adventures post. This time about Brasserie Zédel, found sandwiched between Wilder Walk and Sherwood Street, just round the corner from Piccadilly Circus.

This restaurant/bar/coffee house/cabaret venue seems relatively unassuming from the outside, but once down the stairs and into the basement intersection between the main restaurant, the bar and the bathrooms, the setting becomes an altogether more impressive one. With its classic Art Deco feel, the restaurant is set out like an old train station, with plenty of ornate features and an enormous clock face adorning the far end of the room. All this gives the Brasserie an out-of-the-ordinary ambience that makes for a great dinner.

Another good thing about the restaurant is the breadth of choice on the (written-in-French) menu. There’s plenty of variety to be had – meat, fish, small starters, big starters, classic mains and more unfamiliar ones, and cheaper options (French onion soup for less than £4) as well as a pre-theatre set dinner (ideal if in a rush: the food comes quickly and the staff understand the importance of a swift pre-show turnaround). Wine is available by the carafe and the bottle, adding an extra little bit of French authenticity.

The staff are as friendly as the food is tasty, and the prices are very reasonable, especially given the dishes on offer. The fact the restaurant is found underneath street level, coupled with its relaxed atmosphere and grand vintage decor, make it easy to forget that 21st century London is rumbling along above your head whilst you eat. All in all, Brasserie Zédel is a great place to head for a delicious dinner in an impressive setting with a truly French feel – all without breaking the bank.

A post-work bike ride

Having lived in Zone 2 for just under three and a half years, it’s amazing how much of London’s beautiful features I still haven’t seen. Until very recently, the Grand Union Canal was one of them.

Perfect for a post-work leg stretch, the easy cycle (no hills!) along the canal from Ladbroke Grove to Paddington is long enough to see some impressive waterside scenery and beautiful house boats, but short enough to fit in before a weeknight dinner. Just right for fitting in a tiny flavour of outdoor London around a tiring nine-to-five schedule.

Photo post: Gleno waterfall, Northern Ireland

A quick visit to the waterfall in Gleno, Northern Ireland yielded up a moment of amazing natural beauty. A great place to come if in search of a little bit of tranquility, in a setting that feels a million miles away from the buzz of modern city life.

The dream destination list

Commuting in the capital leaves a lot of time for daydreaming – and one of the best things to daydream about, I find, is travel. I love London, and there is enough to explore here to keep even the most avid adventurer busy for years, but every so often it’s time to venture further afield.

With this is mind, here are some of Great and Small blog’s dream destinations:

1. New Zealand
It seems I am surrounded by people lucky enough to have experienced New Zealand – and they all talk about how breathtaking it is. I want to see what I’m missing out on.

2. The Irish countryside
Having been to Belfast countless times, I’m still yet to explore the green, green surroundings of rural Ireland – Northern or the Republic – and I don’t really know why. A weekend in a little countryside cottage taking in incredible views, food, and history sounds amazing.

3. The American South
A road trip along California’s Pacific Coast Highway a few years ago gave me the driving holiday bug, and a trip around the Southern states is definitely one for the dream destinations list. Books, films and TV can try to give a tiny taste of the culture and feel of the place, but as with anywhere, there’s never any substitute for actually going there.

4. Rio
A visit to Rio at Carnival time would definitely be a tick on the lifelong ambitions list. As well as the incredible colours, sense of celebration and genuinely out-of-the-ordinary draw of the carnival itself, the city and its culture also put this on the once-in-a-lifetime trip list.

5. Iceland
The main theme running through this list is variety, and that’s the appeal of Iceland. Although there is no shortage of rain or chilly mornings in wintry London, anyone who has ever seen photos of Iceland would have to admit that our capital pales in comparison when it comes to its beautiful weather-beaten surroundings. To see the way the infrastructure has adapted, visit the hot springs and take in the Northern Lights would be the realisation of a lot of commuting daydreams.

6. The Galapagos Islands
After seeing David Attenborough’s documentary of the same name earlier this year, all my daydreams of a tropical wildlife paradise are now set in the Galapagos Islands. If the programme only did half justice to the amazing setting, then it looks like this would definitely be a dream destination!

7. A European road trip
Having had a tiny flavour of what it’s like to drive through several European countries in one journey, it’s definitely time for another road trip. A couple of weeks spent exploring the food, history, culture and scenery of some of our European neighbours would be perfect.

8. Greek Island hopping
Looking at pictures of the Greek Islands showcases a setting of bright blue waters, beautiful vistas and delicious food. Island hopping seems like the ideal way to soak up the sunshine and the Greek way of life.

9. Copenhagen
There’s been a lot written about Copenhagen in the travel pages of late, and it looks like it’s the place to go for a busy weekend break. If a couple of days is enough to get a feel for the architecture, food, music and personality of Copenhagen, then I’m in.

10. To be continued…
If writing this post has taught me anything, it’s that it’s impossible to put together a complete dream destinations top ten. The great thing about travel is that the opportunities are endless, and the list of places to go and things to see changes every day. There’s too many destinations to finish this top ten, so I’m leaving it open.

A brilliant weekend brunch

There are many simple pleasures on offer to the busy 9-to-5er living and working in the capital, and one of them is the lazy weekend brunch (usually preceded by the ever-prized lie-in). The good news for those explorers hoping to make the Saturday/Sunday brunch a regular occurrence is that there is certainly no shortage of places to go in London to find it. From the high-end concept brunch a la Heston, to the classic English fry-up, there’s something for everyone in the cafes, pubs, bars and restaurants of the city.

Here are a couple of recent highlights…

Caravan (King’s Cross)

Not too far from King’s Cross station, a Saturday visit recently showed that Caravan has no shortage of admirers – the queue at the door was only surpassed by the number of eager brunch-ers waiting at the bar to be seated. Caravan doesn’t take bookings for weekend brunch, so it would have been wise to arrive ready to wait a while. The prize for waiting is a great choice of dishes (including classics with a twist and more unusual options, like smoked haddock and leek rarebit on toast). The atmosphere was buzzing and the layout is relaxed and spacious – it’s like eating in a converted warehouse or old factory, but with a feeling of home-cooked comfort.

The Diner (Kensal Rise)

An old favourite – the perfect place to find simple, filling food and a laid-back yet authentic atmosphere. Set up like a traditional US diner, it’s easy to get comfortable in the red booths and while away hours over malt milkshakes, eggs florentine, po’ boy sandwiches and endless coffee refills. The music playing in the background is as cool as the photos adorning the walls – The Diner is a great spot for a lazy (and filling) Sunday afternoon.

And a few on the wish list for future visits…

1. Riding House Cafe (W1)
2. The Hawksmoor (EC2)
3. Dean Street Townhouse (W1)

Photo post: summer memories

It seems that spring hasn’t quite yet sprung in London, and the lighter evenings and glorious sunshine of summer are beginning to feel a world away from the more familiar sight of grey clouds, drizzle, and even snow.

So, in the name of spirit-brightening, here’s a mini photo post recapping a few memories of London in the summertime:

Picnicking in Queens Park

Notting Hill Carnival

The Albert Bridge in the sunshine

Bike riding in Hyde Park